Capitals of Baekje: Gongju Part 2

After looking around the tombs in Gongju, we went to Gongsanseong (공산성). In the aftermath of losing Wiryeseong, the Baekje needed a capital. Fundamental to any capital, especially the capital of a country at war, is a fortress. 

The gate, as seen from the Burial Mounds

While there may have been some fortifications present when the capital moved, most of the fortifications where created during the capital move. The fortress itself, like most historic sites of this vintage, requires some imagination to truly appreciate. First, there are no Baekje-era structures still standing, though there are several large rectangles marked out which indicate foundations dating back to the Baekje era. There are some guesses as to what function these buildings may have served, and the signage around them is more than willing to share those guesses, but the reality is that we can't know without a map from that era. 

Secondly, the castle walls which you walk when you visit Gongsanseong, as well as the pavilions and observation platforms and the main gate, are not of Baekje vintage. Gongju, with it's strategic position nestled inside a bend in the 5th longest navigable river on the peninsula, was too valuable to leave unsecured and most of the mud walls of the Baekje castle were updated, rebuilt, and extended in the stone style of the Joseon during the reigns of Kings Seonjo and Injo.

 

Not a Baekje Wall

 Initially, the mud walls extended just over 400 meters. Given the shape of the mountain (a basin, with the mountain up against the river), the original walls simply filled in the low spots, keeping the center as the palace. The Joseon extensions brought the total wall length up to around 2,600 meters, most of it stone. Additionally, they placed a gatehouse at the mouth of the interior depression.

Nor is this a Baekje gate

The Geum river, life-blood of Gongju

 The fortress overlooked the Guem river, an essential trait because maritime trade was the lifeblood of the Baekje. Though located relatively far up-river, Gongju remained accessible for ships of the size and draft common for sailing ships of the day, especially the flat-bottom boats preferred by Korea. Eventually, when the capital moved to Buyeo, it seems likely that trade was a contributing factor as Buyeo is closer to the mouth of the river.

The walls

The walls (Continued)

The Lotus Pond

One of the most fascinating parts of the fortress is the Lotus Pond. Though I'm not sure what vintage the pond itself is, the pavilion (just off-picture to the right) is definitely Joseon. Likely, the pond was built at the same time. It's a beautiful place to stop and sits right against the river. To the left of this picture, within the fortress walls, is Yeongeunsa, an active Buddhist temple.

Overall, the fortress is a relaxing afternoon if you want to stroll in historic places. But like many places on the peninsula, it left me with as many questions about it as answers. Unfortunately, given the age of the questions, it's unlikely that any of them will find definitive resolution, there simply aren't a lot of written records dating to that era.